St Peter’s Church stands in a prominent position on Berkhamsted High Street in the centre of the town, the visible focus of Christian worship in the heart of Berkhamsted. It is the oldest surviving building in the town centre and architecturally the most important.
The earliest parish records go back to 1222, and the oldest parts of the church date from the 13th century. The church has been altered and extended many times in the past 800 years; it was restored in 1820 by Wyatville, again in 1870 by Butterfield, and re-ordered in the 1960s.
Whilte most of the exterior stonework and the flint facing of the building date from the 1870 restoration, the building we see on Berkhamsted High Street today is substantially the same building that has stood over the centre of our town since the reign of Henry VIII.
The earliest part of the building dates from the early thirteenth century and forms the cruciform framework of the building. The stonework is in a bold but plain style. The massive stone piers supporting the tower have a large number of mason’s marks, some of which appear to resemble marks on stonework of similar age in St Alban’s Abbey. There are similar marks in the Lady Chapel.
The stained-glass windows in St Peter’s are particularly interesting. Windows from the 13th century survive in the old chancel and the north aisle. Most of the windows 14th century in origin, with stone tracery designed in the Decorated Gothic style, or are later, in Perpendicular Gothic forms. During the Civil War, St Peter’s Church was used to imprison Royalist soldiers, and in 1648 the windows were taken out, losing most of the original medieval glass.
During the Victorian renovations, the original medieval tracery and the external reveals were replaced with faithful reproductions, while the original internal reveals were retained. New stained glass from renowned Victorian glassmaking companies was installed. The large west window was designed by Heaton, Butler & Bayne; it was displayed at the Paris Exhibition of 1867 and won the bronze medal. From the same workshop are two windows (Crawford and Bartrum memorials) in the St John’s Chantry.
The east window, commemorating the poet William Cowper, and windows in the south transept (Curtis memorial) and the St John’s Chantry (Cooper Memorial), are by Clayton & Bell, and there are windows in the south aisle by Kempe (Smith-Dorrien memorial) and in the north aisle by Nathaniel Westlake.
Windows in the north transept (Dorrien memorial) and Lady Chapel (former east window) are by Powell. There are fragments of early glass in the chancel lancets and a modern (2000) engraved glass window by Peace & Scott in the north aisle.
St Catherine Chapel
Early brasses include those to Richard and Margaret Torrington 1356, Margaret Briggs 1370, John Raven 1385 Richard Westbrooke 1485, Katherine Incent 1521 and an un-named priest of c.1400. Several small sixteenth century brasses commemorating members of the Waterhouse family are palimpsests, including part of an interesting and finely engraved memorial of c.1470 to a London goldsmith, Thomas Humfre, and his wife Joan. The church has good quality reproductions of the palimpsest fragments.
Tomb chests include:
- a knight and lady of c.1375 in Totternhoe stone
- Sir John Cornwallis 1544, a member of the Council of Prince Edward,
- John Sayer 1682, Master Cook to Charles II and founder of the almshouses in Berkhamsted High Street.
Other important monuments include an early medieval coffin top tomb (c.1200) with floriated cross in St Catherine’s Chapel, a wall monument in the South aisle to Thomas Baldwin 1642 by Nicholas Stone, and another in the South Transept to Elizabeth Craddock 1704 by J. Hardy.
In the old chancel there is a fine wall monument to the brothers John & James Moray c.1649, which depicts them holding hands. In the North Transept is a floor slab commemorating Anne Cowper née Donne, mother of the poet William Cowper whose father, John Cowper, was Rector of Berkhamsted 1722-56. Also in the North Transept, are four early Victorian hatchments, restored in 2005.
The churchyard, closed in the nineteenth century, is an attractive area of lawn, on the north side of the church, with several mature trees (cedar, common lime, silver lime) and bounded on the north side by the original Berkhamsted School building of 1541-4. A yew tree, probably about 350 years old, stands within the churchyard by the junction of the High Street with Castle Street.